Mindchow from Vaidy: Annapurna circuit

In March 2018, I and my friends trekked for 11 days in Nepal’s Himalayan mountains along the Annapurna circuit trail crossing one of the world’s highest passes, Thorong-La at an altitude of 5416 metres (17,769 feet) above sea level. This is my account of the challenging trek. (It’s a bit long because of the duration of the trip and hence, request your patience.)

The Annapurna Circuit is a trek within the Annapurna mountain range of central Nepal. The total length of the route varies between 160–230 km (100-145 mi), depending on where motor transportation is used and where the trek is ended. This trek crosses two different river valleys and encircles the Annapurna massif. The path reaches its highest point at Thorong La pass (5416m/17769 ft), touching the edge of the Tibetan plateau. Practically all trekkers hike the route anticlockwise, as this way the daily altitude gain is slower, and crossing the high Thorong La pass is easier and safer. The mountain scenery, seen at close quarters includes the Annapurna Massif (Annapurna I to IV), Dhaulagiri, Machapuchare, Manaslu, Gangapurna, Tilicho Peak, Pisang Peak, and Paungda Danda. Numerous other peaks of 6000-8000 m in elevation rise from the Annapurna range. The trek begins at Besisahar or Bhulbhule/Nigdi in the Marshyangdi river valley and concludes in the Kali Gandaki Gorge. (We concluded our trek at a place called Muktinath). The trail passes along paddy fields and into subtropical forests, several waterfalls and gigantic cliffs, and various villages. Annapurna Circuit has often been voted as the best long distance trek in the world (Got to experience that first hand and can confirm the same), as it combined, in its old full form, a wide variety of climate zones from tropics at 600m above mean sea level (AMSL) to the arctic at 5416 m AMSL at the Thorong La pass and cultural variety from Hindu villages at the low foothills to the Tibetan culture of Manang Valley and Lower Mustang.

DAY 1 - Mumbai-Kathmandu and exploring Kathmandu

We started on 10th March from Mumbai.

Mumbai Airport

TIMS- Trekers Information Management System

A routine flight later, we reached Kathmandu, checked into the Hotel and the same evening, after a briefing and some mandatory paperwork by the Organizers (which basically means we sign a declaration saying organizers are not responsible for our deaths!!!), it’s off to Pashupatinath Temple, to seek the blessings of the Powerful Resident Diety of Kathmandu.

Pashupatinath Temple

A quick dinner and some trekking gear purchases later we retire early, to start the next day fresh. We also get introduced to our Guide Prem Bahadur Thapa with specific do’s and don’ts’ instructions.

Day 2 – Journey to Bhulbhule

The following day (11^th Mach), Post breakfast, we start our memorable journey towards Bhulbhule through Besisahar ( 2,490 ft). We traverse by river Marshyangdi and several small mountain villages. We enjoy smooth roads up to Besisahar. Soon after, we drive across mountain terrains (read uneven tracks) as we arrive at our destination of the day, which is a picturesque village on the banks of Marshyangdi River surrounded by snow-capped mountains. We stay overnight at Nigdi Village and are given a taste of our expected boarding and lodgings for the next couple of weeks. We meet a few fellow trekkers and exchange notes. Night time brings with it fitful sleep to the accompaniment of the soft sound of bubbling water.

Accomodations

Day 03: Nigadi to Jagat (4,232 ft, about 6 hours trek ) 12th March.

Today Early morning, we begin our trek to Jagat through motor-able roads(Man (un)made roads - Immense Respect for the vehicle drivers) alongside Marshyangdi River. Today's route is less straining and more picturesque as we encounter many waterfalls while gaining more altitude. The only issue being vehicles frequently making us scramble to the sides of the Roads. We reach Jagat by late afternoon. It is a small quaint village with basic amenities. We bask under the sun and explore the village. The hot water springs did sound an attractive proposition, but the approaching darkness deterred us from soaking in the same. One interesting aspect of the entire trek was that the schedule showed a different distance to be traversed and our Mobile app almost always showed nearly double of that. Which led me to compare the actual distance and the “as the crow flies” distance which travel companies promote.

Day 04: Jagat to Dharapani (6,299 ft, in about 6 - 7 hours) 13th March.

For me, the day started with an upset stomach + inadequate sleep because of bedbugs !!! The target was very clear for the day - Reach the Destination and rest. Expectedly minimal breakfast and lunch made the day easier to manage. Today we trekked along the trails which offered stunning view of landscape with gushing waterfalls on the way, a hanging bridge to cross over Marshyangdi River to reach Taal. We halted at Taal for lunch and then moved onward to our final destination for the day. The route between Taal to Dharapani is very pleasant to the eyes as we surpass more than 100 waterfalls. Somewhere along the way we lose track of the number!!!!! And hence refer to the next one as N+1th Waterfall. Also, the Suspension Bridge that we crossed that day was the first of many.

Overnight at Dharapani - By now we are getting used to the quaint Tea Houses and the double blankets that our Hosts were kind enough to provide. The good Trekking shoes that we had, saved me from several ‘ouch’ moments protecting the ankles from twists in the uneven paths.

Day 05: Dharapani to Chame (8,629 ft in about 6 - 7 hours) 14th March .

It was supposed to be a Rhododendron Trail. Did not get to see too many though, maybe ‘development’ is to be blamed!! We made fairly good time and convinced ourselves that our timing has improved. :D .

Day 06: Chame to Pisang (10,466 ft in about 5 - 6 hours) 15th March .

We stayed at “Lower” Pisang and strangely enough were the only tourists at “Eco Cottage Lodge”. The day’s trek was very interesting through Pine forests, and the occasional steep ridge (which combined with the gradually increasing altitude left us breathless). We passed through the Bryaga village and the Buddhist influence was very marked in the style of the Houses as also the benign Monastery overlooking the village. Crossing the majestic Marshyagandhi through the magnificent Suspension Bridges had almost become a daily affair. A continuous drizzle ensured that our rain gear was put to good use.

Got to see the magnificent animals of the mountains – mountain goats in plenty and quite a few Yaks too.

One peculiarity at Pisang which the locals stoically accepted. There was no electricity in the village and surrounding areas for ten days!!! However, the solar system ensured that cooking was happening normally. And with luck even a bit of warm water for the occasional wash.

Day 07: Pisang to Manang (11,549 ft in about 5 - 6 hours) 16th March.

The night was cool but clear but the next day We woke up to snow all around

A chance to charge the Electronic equipments and some much needed leisure.

There was an interesting library to be raided too at the Tilocho Hotel where we stayed.

The rest day also gave the opportunity to wash clothes for all those who were inclined to do so.

One interesting aspect of the day’s trek (Pisang to Manang) was when we had to navigate across a landslide prone region and we did it gingerly yet quickly one by one under the able guidance of Prem.

Day 08: Rest day in Manang 17th March.

Today we are free to take rest and get energized for the next day’s ardour. Our Guide Prem’s idea of rest is to go for a ‘short trek” on the Hills. We chanced upon the Magnificent Gangapurna Lake and got used to the super slippery ice paths. My fellow trekkers had already done more than their share of homework by way of googling extensively and were frequently dropping the figures of AMS cases, slips, falls, and the notorious sub-zero temperatures all along the trip while reminding about the insurance cover with helicopter airlift included. The slippery climb and descent along the narrow paths suddenly gave a whole new dimension of what to expect the next few days of Trek.

Day 09: Manang to Yak Kharka (13,484 ft in about 4 hours) 18th March.

Yak Kharka brought with it magnificent views of the Annapurna 2,3 and 4 peaks as also the Gangapurna peak. I don’t think we ever will get over the feeling of being dwarfed amidst the massive peaks. The excitement was gradually building up as we gained height every day.

Day 10: Yak, Kharka to Thorong Phedi (15,092 ft, 3 – 4 hours) 19th March.

We reached Thorong Pedi early enough and after a quick lunch proceeded to trek to a height of about 150+ metres and returned back. Trek high and sleep low is a mantra which most trekkers follow. This is to enable the body to get used to the higher altitudes that it will be encountering.

Day 11: Throng Phedi to Muktinath (12,467 ft, 8 - 9 hours) 20th.

Forgive the slightly longer narrative style here. This day was the highlight of the entire trip and had to be described accordingly.
It was an ice-cold night. It had snowed slightly the previous night turning the panoramic mountain peaks into humongous white monsters. In the freezing early hours of the day, we were due to wake soon to climb the highest navigable (on foot) mountain pass in the world, Thorong-La. Sleep was fitful not only because of the biting cold but also because of the anticipation. Our base camp was at 4400 metres, and when you are this high acute mountain sickness is to be expected. Visions of helicopter evacuations kept floating in front of my eyes. The week-long climb to this point had been challenging, but it was nothing compared to the day that lay before me, and I knew it. For the first time during the hike I was just a little bit scared. The reality that I was not an experienced trekker, but a budget backpacker seeking a new thrill weighed on my mind and I tried to not let it psyche me out. When our guide gave us the wakeup call at 1.30 a.m., it was a relief from the nervous sleeplessness. We piled on the layers of clothing and got (mentally and physically) ready for the long day ahead. As it was an unearthly hour, there was no chance for a comforting tea before heading out into the freezing darkness. Guided only by headlights, which dotted the climb like stars, each person made their own way up to first steep ascent of the day. Cold hands and breathing were the hardest things early on, but we all found a comfortable pace and the first couple of hours passed by without any cause for concern, in fact, I felt confident and ready to tackle whatever lay ahead.

As we climbed further, paces slowed – and continued to slow to nothing more than a crawl. We took a much-needed break at an abandoned wood cabin and also managed a small fire to warm us up a bit. Water in our normal bottles had frozen. The steel flask ensured we got a swig of hot water too; to drink whatever water hadn’t yet frozen was a task in itself. I have been and always will be a doer rather than a thinker and the continuous enquiries from my fellow trekkers about distance remaining to be climbed only served to distract me. I estimated about 200 metres to climb upwards to reach the Thorong-La – I’d never been so close, yet I felt a million miles away. Each person I was trekking with was enduring their own personal struggle. Conversation had completely died down and we were just plodding along.
“There it is!” Dr.Swamy shouted ahead. “I can see the flags!”
Our guide Prem had some sense of humour and had kept the sight of the signboard and flags hidden until we were practically stumbling into them. Time 7.45 a.m. and mental maths showed we had trekked for 5 hours and 45 mins to ascend 1200m AMSL. The euphoria of the moment is very difficult to describe, it has to be experienced. We were able to spend 30 minutes soaking in the moment . Pics, videos, much hugging and more pics and the inevitable ginger lemon tea from a Tibetan man who made a living serving expensive tea to overjoyed hikers at the pass each day. Sipping hot chai in that moment was odd bliss and I couldn’t wipe the smile from my face.

For the first time in more than a week we were going down – my body was crying out for lower altitude, and I wasn’t going to deny it any longer. I stood in front of the fluttering Tibetan prayer flags one last time before starting the descent. They say mountains talk to you. I think I know what they mean now. Inspite of our eagerness to reach the Pass, we were still lucky to chance upon the spectacle of the Golden Rays of the Sun kissing the tops of the Mountain Ranges just few 100 meters below the Pass. The time must have been around 6.50 a.m. at that time.

Soon it was time to descend.

For the first time in more than a week we were going down – my body was crying out for lower altitude, and I wasn’t going to deny it any longer. I stood in front of the fluttering Tibetan prayer flags one last time before starting the descent. They say mountains talk to you. I think I know what they mean now. Inspite of our eagerness to reach the Pass, we were still lucky to chance upon the spectacle of the Golden Rays of the Sun kissing the tops of the Mountain Ranges just few 100 mtrs below the Pass . The time must have been around 6.50 a.m. at that time.

From there, we started descent towards Muktinath, which is considered to be a sacred place for both Hindus and Buddhists. The majestic Dhaulagiri Ranges stretched in front of us in all splendors. The descent from Thorang La Pass to Muktinath after the exhilarating ascent was slow and torturous. Blame our inexperienced feet on slippery ice !!!!! Without exception all of us including Prem (our Guide) had our slide, whoosh and Thud moments. Thankfully no injuries to any one. The descent though brought with it much needed lower altitudes and easier breathing to our Oxygen starved lungs. After a lunch break at Thorang Pedi where my friends felt adventurous enough to try Sea Buck Thorn Juice (!!!) , we proceeded towards Muktinath and finally reached the Hotel there around 5 p.m. - a grueling 16 hours after waking up at.

Overnight stay in Muktinath was in a decent Hotel and we gratefully crashed into our beds after the coffee and a hot shower (Shridhar and me opting to skip dinner and waking up next morning directly after a 11 hour long rest ) . The two doctors explored the Muktinath Temple to seek Blessings for all .

Unanimously , we dropped the day trek from Muktinath to Jomson in favour of a direct drive to Pokhra. The original plan of Flight from Jomson to Pokhara altered because of the unfavourable weather at Jomson.

21/3 to 23/3 – Muktinath to Pokhara and then onward to Kathmandu : Man proposes and God Disposes!!! In this case our drive through mountainous Nepal’s non existent roads ensured we spent several hours on the road. In fact more number of hours than what we would have spent , if we had trekked. We drove through, Jungle trails, road blocks and inhospitable weather.

Our Bus developed a technical snag providentially near a Tea House where we spent the night.

Next day started early as our onward journey commenced at 4 am and after breaks for tea and breakfast we reach Pokhara by 11am. Overnight at Pokhara and Pokhara to Kathmandu and then the short flight back to Aamchi Mumbai brought the eventful trip to an end. At Pokhara , we had an interesting luncheon tete a tete with Everest trekker Lakpa Tsheri Sherpa - National Geographic adventurer of the year 2012. Lakpa is an Eight time Everest Summiter !! and a Paragliding Champion . He also is a Discovery Channel Cameraman for High Altitude shoots. He had some very interesting experiences to share. Can’t thank our Guide Prem enough for this awesome unexpected bonus.

Few random notings which deserve special mention -

· One peculiarity of Forex dealers in entire Nepal, no one has any exchange rate for INR but everyone accepts INR at 1.6 conversion factor!!! Another peculiarity – International Debit card with “RuPay” network not accepted in any place .

· There are no rules for the weather in the mountains. Over the 11 days trek we had gorgeous sunny days with temperatures up to 20C degrees and then days below freezing temperatures, the lowest was a chilly -14C degrees (this was close to the Thorong-La Pass above 5,000 m/16,404 ft).

· You can’t drink tap water unless you have an iron stomach!! So what are your options? There is always mineral water available to buy, but 3-4 plastic bottles of water a day, that’s not great for the environment or the pocket . What you can do is buy some water purification tablets or Chlorine drops (Chlorivatt) and have water for the whole journey, easy solution.

· Also, another water issue is that when the temperature drops (this was only on the ‘Pass’ day) it tends to freeze. Even otherwise on most days temperature of the water is more like refrigerated water

· HOW MUCH NEPALESE MONEY SHOULD YOU TAKE FOR THE ANNAPURNA TREK?

· ATMs in the mountains? Nope, you’ll be disappointed because there aren’t any and also as you climb higher the costs do tend to rise. Now don’t panic because everything is pretty cheap to start with but you will notice prices rising during your trip so just make sure you have enough. Shridhar , the experienced trekker in our Group had cleverly opted for our Group to have a meals included tariff and that proved to be a major factor in keeping our out of pocket expenses well under control. I took NR 20,000 (about INR 15000) which was sufficient for me.

· Along the entire Annapurna trek, you’ll come across various sacred Buddhist monuments. Known as Stupas; many of them with prayer wheels, as per the picture below. The correct way of walking past these is always on the left-hand side or clock wise while rolling them with your right hand.

If you’re lucky enough to have porters, which we did, then just remember to pack wisely. I tried lifting one of the bags our trusty porters were carrying (about 30kg); I could lift it, I even did a few steps but I could not imagine carrying that weight all the way. Kudos to our Porters – Mohan and Bhim . Mohan incidentally , like most young Nepalis is a Die hard fan of Bollywood and Tollywood Movies and was reeling off names and humming filmy numbers whenever opportunity warranted.

The two on the extreme right are Bhim and Mohan , the porters.

One another surprising aspect was - Almost every teahouse we stayed in had Wi-Fi !!! Again the further away from civilisation you walked it went from being free to a maximum of INR 100 for 24 hours. Sometimes the connection wasn’t too great, but then ... hey we were in the mountains so what do you expect!!!!! The charging of even Mobile phones or Battery packs became payable at Higher altitudes. Cost of water as we ascend – NR 150/- (from NR 30 at lower ranges)

Several times during the narration I have mentioned about the importance of good Shoes. It would not be out of place here to mention that we had a few fellow trekkers comfortably overtaking us in basic floaters !!!!

Elsewhere in another post (http://itsmevaidy.blogspot.in/2017/02/chadar-trek-2017-experience-of-lifetime.html) I had mentioned about “Kadmon mein padam” i.e. earnings in each step . . . Got plenty of opportunity for experiencing the same in this trek too.

Another interesting point, We did not chance upon any Indian Trekkers during the entire two weeks. Our guide Prem, later told us that Indians favoured the more popular Everest Base Camp (EBC).

It was wonderful having the Company of Dr.Ramesh Raman (Ramesh) , Dr. Narayanaswamy (Swamy) and Krishnamurthy (aka Shridhar ) . Shridhar’s colourful anecdotes ( and Surya breaks) , Swamy’s stoic demeanour and never dying enthusiasm for capturing the memories and moments in his Camera , Ramesh’s mind boggling ability to keep reeling off the Technical details and of Course Prem (our Guide’s) perpetually smiling face and patience with our pace are things which will stay with me for a long time. Having four Tambrams in the Trek group ensured that we spoke and discussed more Tambraminical stuff than what we would do in a entire lifetime. Palakkad Slang and MMKR dialogueswere standard fare throughout the trip. Looking forward to the next one soon. Will it be Kilimanjaro in January 2019 ? ? Time only will tell J